BEST SNOWBOARDS 0F 2005

Every fall you find yourself ridiculously drooling in front of a wall of shiny boards, trying to pick out the perfect one. 2005 has produced a great mix of boards for everyone, from beginners to experts. Most of them are easy to ride, while a couple are specially designed for expert riders (when necessary we tell you which are which). One thing they all have in common is the fun factor.

Sapient PNB1 Snowboard --Sapient offers the PNB1 as their team freestyle board. The best materials and construction team up to make the PNB1 super-responsive and very lightweight. This deck is loaded with pop for bigger jumps and tall ollies in the park. This is a great debut from the Canadian company.

Ride DH Snowboard--Ride has long been a player in the busy snowboard market. Their DH line is coming on strong with a park-specific shape that seems to work everywhere on the mountain. Old school shredder Jason Ford must have told Ride what colors to use on this super fun deck. Under the smooth white topsheet and Kawasaki green base is a twin-tip that is ready to stomp tricks anywhere there is snow.

Arbor Mystic Snowboard--We can't say enough good things about the Arbor Mystic. This is a wildly fun board in all conditions. The bamboo core is light and really snappy. Bamboo is one of the strongest materials on the planet--increasing the board’s durability, performance, and overall strength. And bamboo’s environmentally friendly to boot, growing ten times faster than the fastest-growing tree.

Lib Tech Magne-Traction Snowboard--The Lib Tech ‘Magne-Traction’ is an awesome innovation from the creators of the modern snowboard. Mike Olson and company have come up with yet another breakthrough that will leave the snowboard industry speechless. Instead of having one arc, the edge of the Magne-Traction utilizes multiple contact points. The result is improved edge hold in all conditions, and the feeling of independent steering from your feet. Built with solid Lib Tech construction, the Magne-Traction is light and responsive.

Endeavor High Five Snowboard--Endeavor is givin’ a shout out with the gangstas’ graffiti graphics on their ‘High Five’ boards. The board and its graphics are here to remind everyone of a time when snowboarding was about fun and ripping it up with your friends. Flattened out nose and tail kicks smooth out park obstacles and float through powder, just like the good old days. Hand-made in Canada, all Endeavor boards are light and tough.

Option Travis Williams Snowboard--Oh Canada! What’s up with our neighbors in the Great White North? This is the third Canadian company in our 2005 ‘best’ list. Must be all of the cold snowy weather, real mountains and rippin’ riders. The Option Williams is an uncompromising professional model for snowboarders demanding total control and on-point handling in any condition.

Nitro T1 Snowboard--The first thing we noticed about the Nitro T1 156, aside from the excellent ‘killer bee’ yellow and black colors, was how easy this board is to ride. This board would be fun for everyone from beginners to pros. It tracks well, but still has the ability to turn on command. The $369 price tag and a two-year warranty make the T1 a great choice.

Burton Custom Snowboard--What’s there to say about Burton’s ‘Custom’ that you don’t already know? Burton has been making this board for around 10 years and the shape never goes out of style. The materials have been refined over that time, and the Custom just keeps getting better and better. Super-light weight, cool graphics and lots of pop make the Custom one of our favorites every season. If imitation is the highest form of flattery, the Burton Custom should feel pretty damn special.

K2 Disciple Snowboard--This is one stiff board. The Disciple uses all of K2’s know-how to make an extra responsive board for the critical rider. Edge-to-edge the Disciple holds turns with super quick craziness, and can jump farther and higher than you probably want to go. If you are ready to give up everything and follow the snow clouds to earthly Nirvana, then the Disciple is your board.

Atomic Alibi Snowboard--The Atomic Alibi is a high-end freestyle machine. Atomic’s ‘Inter-Carbon Sprocket Power Boosters’ incorporate carbon from the rear bindings back to create quite a product. The Alibi also features a textured ‘Lizard Skin’ topsheet, which not only looks bad-ass but also keeps the snow from sticking to your board.

Academy Rhythm--The medium-stiff flex of Academy's Carbon Tech construction-carbon strips are integrated into the woodcore-makes for a smooth and predictable ride. This directional twin (a twin-tip shape with the sidecut and flex set back of center) is best suited to medium-sized riders with skills, but it's also forgiving enough for upcomers. The brand stands behind its boards with a two-year warranty--but that’s available in specialty snowboard shops only.

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Clothing Size Chart

Tips for Fitting
When purchasing snowboarding jackets use your regular shirt/jacket/coat size as a guide. Both snowboard jackets and pants leave extra room for long underwear, fleece and/or sweats.

Junior Sizing
When sizing for Juniors, don't forget to factor in a little room for growth; sizing up saves money in the long run.

K2 Snowboard Clothing Sizing
K2 Snowboard Jackets and pants generally fit to the sizing charts for Black Dot/Bonfire/House-Evol-Fusion for both men and women.

Volcom Snowboard Clothing Sizing
Volcom Snowboard jackets and pants generally fit to the sizing charts for Black Dot/Bonfire/House-Evol-Fusion for both men and women. NOTE: The cut in Volcom jackets and pants is slightly more generous than in other brands.

DC Snowboard Clothing Sizing
DC Snowboard jackets and pants generally fit to the sizing charts for Black Dot/Bonfire/House-Evol-Fusion for both men and women. NOTE: The cut in DC jackets and pants is slightly more generous than in other brands.

Planet Earth Snowboard Clothing Sizing
Planet Earth Snowboard jackets and pants generally fit to the sizing charts for Black Dot/Bonfire/House-Evol-Fusion for both men and women. NOTE: The cut in Planet Earth pants are slightly smaller than in other brands.

World Industries Youth Clothing Sizing
World Industries jackets and pants for juniors generally fit to the sizing charts for Black Dot/Bonfire/House-Evol-Fusion.

Mitt and Glove Sizing
When measuring, use a tape measure and keep measuring tape snug, but not tight. Measure your hand around the knuckles with hand flat, thumb excluded, for normal glove size. Those at the lower end of the size, who want a closer fit, order one size smaller. Those at the upper end of the size, who want a looser fit, order one size larger.

Grenade brand gloves run small, so order a size larger than the size recommended on the chart.

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Helmets

Anyone who’s been out in the Alps over the last five, or even three, years cannot failed to have noticed the increase in the number of people wearing helmets.

You don’t wear a helmet?!?
Only a few seasons ago, it was only hard-core skiers in Chamonix that wore helmets, but now helmets are not quite ubiquitous, but certainly widely worn across all resorts.

This is backed up by sales figures. Peter Radford from MyCoal, which imports Sun helmets into the UK, told Natives that worldwide helmet sales have increased by up to 200% in the last two years.

Sun Helmets - Race, Steel and Morpheus

High profile accidents such as the death of Sonny Bono have also stimulated sales, but there is a sense across the board that safety considerations are being taken more seriously, with sales of transceivers equally on the rise.

How helmets work
Many people believe that the most important purpose of a helmet is to protect them against cracking their skulls open. But just as important is the helmet’s ability to minimize trauma to the brain inside the skull.

Concussion and injury often comes from the brain (which is in motion) coming to an instantaneous halt against the inside of the skull (humans can only handle about 300g’s without severe injury)

When looking at helmets, don’t just consider the hardness of the outer shell, but make sure you check the inner liner – which will absorb most of any impact energy through compression or destruction. The outer shell helps to spread impact energy over a larger portion of the helmet.

How do I know if I have hit hard enough to need a new helmet?
Bear in mind that once the liner has been compressed in an accident (which may not be visible), the helmet has served its purpose and should be destroyed and replaced. It has given its life to protect yours!

After a fall check for any of the classic signs of a head injury – dizziness, nausea, ringing ears, loss of balance, consciousness or memory, headache, confusion, or vision disturbance.

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High-Tech Fashion on the Slopes

Next ski season, snowboarding equipment manufacturer Burton will unveil a new line of outerwear that the company designed with Motorola. The jackets, helmets and beanies will be equipped with cell phone and MP3 player technology so that snowboarders can toggle between talking on the phone and listening to music.

Bruce Hawver, vice president of Motorola's companion products division, says boarders can use their own cell phones and MP3 players as long as they're Bluetooth-enabled, or they can buy products with the devices wired in. Hawver says the jackets feature a control module on one sleeve that uses Bluetooth wireless technology to communicate with the cell phone and the MP3 player and to switch between the two. For example, when a snowboarder gets a call, the control panel automatically pauses the music and displays the caller information. The wearer can accept or reject the call with the touch of a button. A microphone in the jacket zipper picks up the wearer's voice, and speakers in the hood and helmet allow the wearer to hear the call or listen to tunes.

Sound cool?

The consensus among a group of snowboarding instructors at the Stratton Mountain ski resort in Vermont is that these products are for the "joeys"—the preteen and teenage wanna-bes whose parents can afford to buy such extravagancies for them. According to Burton spokeswoman Nancy Carlson, the jackets will cost about $499.

The outlook was more positive at Sid and Dusty's snowboard shop in Stratton Village, where employee Phil Galante thinks the new products will fly off the racks. "People want better, newer technology that makes it easier to communicate. I think people will eat it up."

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Snowboard Accessories

Hats
First let's get one thing straight: Comedy Hats aren't funny. Never wear one, ever. Not in an ironic way, not on Mardi Gras, never. Don't even leave it at home. Skiing is a dangerous sport. You might die. Someone might find it.

Every season worker needs a hat of some sort though. It's a commonly known fact that 90% of heat loss is through the head. A beanie in the back pocket doesn't get stolen or cigarette burns like a coat can in a busy bar, but makes all the difference on a cold trudge home. Never mind what it can do while you ski.

If you want to get an idea of what hat manufacturers are going to be doing next year - take a look at this year's RedEye collection - that seems to be where most of them get their designs.

Bumbags
Bumbags are totally unacceptable. Not only do Americans wear them, but they call them 'Fanny Packs'.

Gloves /Mittens
The glove v. mitten debate goes on. Mittens can be warmer and harder wearing, but make it harder to grip a pole. Whichever way you go, don't skimp on the price - for cheap, read wet and cold. Try to get long, easily tightened gauntlets, for when you're trailing your hands in the deep powder. Mitts with the ninja-turtle style, single separated finger are ideal for clothing adjustments and pointing at comedy hats.

Hand Warmers
If you suffer from bad circulation these can be a real day-saver in the early months. Bear in mind also that cold hands and feet are often a symptom of your body preserving heat for your vital organs. eg a thermal vest or a fleece gilet might make your extremities a lot warmer. And no one can generate enough heat unless they've had enough to eat - saucisses frites is the best hand warmer in town.

Socks
Good socks do make a difference, there's no question. They are also hideously expensive and there is blessedly little going on in the second hand market. Two thin socks does not compensate for a thick one - it just gives twice as much to scrunch up and hurt. The ideal is one, thin, specifically designed ski or board sock. Tubes with a picture of a snowman on the side do not count as specifically designed - although you can buy four times as many pairs, which your room-mates may appreciate.

Wrist-guards
There are two schools of thought on wrist-guards. Some say that they simply transmit the shock wave higher up your arm and as such provide little real benefit. Really it's up to the individual, but broken wrists are by far the commonest serious injury among novice snowboarders and bear in mind the bones further up your arms are considerably thicker and stronger.

Sun Cream
If you don't want to be left with skin as ruined and wrinkled as Keith Richard's nether regions high factor sun cream is essential. A good after sun lotion or moisturiser is also a good idea and isn't construed as part of a sex change application form.

Bandanas
Marshall Mathers can do it. So can cowboys, car mechanics, and Crypts. It's fine to keep one in a backpack or pocket for the times when you are caught without your hat. Just don't be caught without your hat.

Glasses Cords
Your uber-cool shades will definitely not look as good with a glasses cord dangling from them. On the other hand they will also not look great lost forever or boarded over by your mate.

Snow Blades
Snow Blade is actually a Salomon trademark - Fruit Boot is the generic term. Since you're old enough to be looking at a site without parental control options, you're too old for snow blades. Exceptionally talented individuals may use them in the half-pipe - but please be discreet getting to and from it.

Liftpass Holders
If you are in a resort where you regularly have to show your pass the see-through arm holders save you undoing layers and are therefore great. Especially on cold days, which is traditionally when lifties check most vigorously.

Ski Bags /Board Bags
Fantastic for cramming full of all of your kit, not just the hardware, so you can keep to the baggage allowance of your company or carrier. Most also make a passable dirty clothes bag - though you will find things don't just appear clean and ironed in your drawers, like out of the magic Ali-Baba basket at home.

Roof Box
Think about where you're headed - if it's a resort where you drive to the slopes, or often go on road trips then easy ski loading is a fantastic advantage, as is the ability to cut down costs by taking more people. They're not cheap but will last for years and years.

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Snowboard Anatomy and Features - What is a Snowboard?

Base

This is the bottom side of the Snowboard, the part that touches the Snow Surface. Getting bases that glide faster is the perpetual quest of any serious tuner or racer.

Most Snowboard bases are made from a polyethylene material called P-Tex. These bases are either "sintered" or "extruded" type. Extruded bases are melted and cut to shape. They are long lasting and easy to repair. However, the extruded type of base is the slowest and holds less wax than the other types of bases. Sintered bases, on the other hand, are first grounded into powder, heated, pressed, and then sliced into shape. A sintered base is superior to the extruded base - it's more durable, faster, and holds wax better. Even so, it's more expensive and difficult to repair.

If you're looking for high performance, opt for a Snowboard with a sintered base. Then again, if you're on a tight budget, an extruded model will do.

Another type of Snowboard base that is better than the sintered P-Tex base is a "graphite" base. Graphite base is the fastest type of Snowboard base and has a higher capacity to hold wax. In a graphite base, graphite is added to the polyethylene pellets that are used to make the base. This type of Snowboard base is always deep black and is mostly found on fast racing boards.

Camber

This is the gentle arch the board makes when you rest it on a flat surface. Camber is closely related to flex - the higher the camber, the more pressure the board puts at the nose and tail. A Flat camber indicates that a board may spin easily, which can be good for certain freestyle moves. In a used board, however, it may also be a sign that the board is worn out. In most new boards, choose a slightly springy camber that helps stabilize the board at higher speeds and on hard snow, and makes it easier to turn.

Contact Points

These are the points at which the board makes contact with the snow without the pressure of the rider being displaced on the board. This is also called the board's "wheel base". Contact points can be found near the nose and the tail. Place the board on a smooth, flat surface then slide a piece of paper under the center of the Snowboard. Slide the paper toward the nose or tail until it stops.

Edge

This is the metal edge on the Snowboard. The "toe edge" is the edge at the toe side of the Snowboard. Accordingly, the "heel edge" is the edge at the heel side of the Snowboard.

Effective Edge

The length of metal edge on the Snowboard which touches the snow is the effective part that is used to make a turn. Consequently, it does not include the edge of the tip and tail. The effective edge is in contact with the snow when the board is in a carved turn. A longer effective edge makes for a more stable, controlled ride; a shorter effective edge makes for a looser, easier turning board.

Flex Point

The flex point is located between the two Snowboard Bindings. This is the point where the board begins or ends its flex, and allows for sidecut radius contact. "Stiff torsional flex" allows a board to grip hard snow and Ice. On the other hand, "soft torsional flex" makes a board less responsive, but more forgiving to the rider.

Lighter riders and beginners usually prefer boards with softer flex since softer flex handle better in the bumps and are easier to turn. Freestyle boards are the softest among the three types of boards. Next comes Freeride boards. Carving boards are built with fairly firm flex and stiff torsion.

Nose/Tip

This is the front end of the Snowboard. If your Snowboard has a similar front and back side, the side that is turned up higher is usually the nose. Alpine Snowboards often have a more pointed nose. You need a higher nose or tip for higher speed alpine riding to keep your snowboard from digging itself into the snow.

Nose/Tip Length

This is the length of board from the widest part of the board's nose to the tip of the nose.

Nose/Tip Width

The widest part of the board measured across the front tip or nose area of the board.

Overall Length

This is measured from the tip of the board to the tail, and is usually referred to in centimeters (cm).

Sidecut Radius

This is the measurement of how deep or shallow the board's cut is from the nose of the board to its waist (or middle). The sidecut radius helps the board turn. Thus, the smaller the sidecut radius, the tighter you will be able to turn. In contrast, a board with a larger sidecut will make big arching turns. The radius of the circle is responsible for the hourglass shape of the snowboard and, accordingly, how it is defined and measured. The sidecut radius works in conjunction with the running length of the Snowboard.

Stomp Pad

A stomp pad or nonskid pad is a rubber mat that you can stick on top of your Snowboard next to your back foot binding. This is used when you need to slide only with your front foot bound to your Snowboard (e.g. when you are exiting a lift). Without a stomp pad, you could slide off your board, catch the snow with your back foot, and even pull your legs apart - this could be very painful.

Tail

The tail is the rear end of the Snowboard, opposite of the nose or tip. Generally, the tail is flatter than the tip, with more squared cut. Some alpine boards have a split in the tail for more turning power and coordination in high speed turns. Freestyle boards often have similar tips and noses to make it easier to ride fakie (with the front foot in the back).

Tail Length

This is the length of board from the widest part of the board's tail to the tip of the tail.

Tail Width

The tail width is the widest part of the board that is measured across the tail's tip or tail area of the board.

Top/Deck

Opposite of the base, the top of the board is where the bindings are mounted and the rider stands. Most boards have mounting holes in the deck where the bindings can be screwed into. These holes enable you to connect your bindings to your board in different angles and stances.

Waist Width

This is the narrowest point of the board. The waist width is normally at the middle of the sidecut, located between the bindings. Waist width of a board should be relative to the size of your feet. Boards with narrow waist width are quicker from edge to edge. However, if your feet are size 11 and above, you will most likely need to get a wider board.

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Snowboard Binding Sizing Chart

The vast majority of bindings in the industry come in three sizes:

When purchasing bindings, it is important to focus on the maximum capacity of a particular binding. If in doubt about sizing, please feel free to call us at 800-992-7245.

* Specifications may vary depending on the manufacturer. Please check the individual product descriptions for more information.

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Snowboard Boot Sizing Chart

For Men and Women

Over the years, we have seen that on average the best rule of thumb for boot purchasing is to go one full size size larger than your standard "street" shoe size . While we pride ourselves on having a very low exchange/return rate, most of our boot exchanges are due to purchasing boots that are too small.

Keep in mind the sock thickness you will be using when riding and factor in adequate room. Thicker socks combined with ample room to move your toes will be substantially warmer than layering two or three regular socks. In addition, boot liners will compress with use, hence initial fit will be slightly more snug than a boot that has been used a number of times. If in doubt about sizing, please call us toll-free for more info at 800-992-7245.

For Juniors

Please follow the recommendations in the chart below when sizing boots for juniors:

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Snowboard Buying Guide & Shop - How & Where to buy a Snowboard

Buying a Snowboard is not as easy as it may seem. There are many inferior Types of Snowboards available in the market today. Thus, be extra careful in Selecting a Snowboard. What follows is a quick menu to our Snowboards Shop where you can choose from our extensive collection of Freestyle, Freeride ( All Mountain), and Alpine (Carving) Boards. Here are some Guide Questions in Selecting the right Type of Snowboards appropriate for you and your Riding Style.

For beginning riders, it is always better to rent first before buying a Snowboard. Renting a board will allow you to try out a range of models and Brands of Snowboards. This will also help you find out the appropriate Riding Style for you. Most Ski or Snow Resorts and a lot of local sporting goods shops offer Snowboard rentals.

When Choosing a Snowboard, the main question should certainly NOT be, "How will this cool board look with the rest of my Snowboard Gear?" You need to at least be familiar with several things about yourself, the Snowboards, and the different riding styles before you can choose a board that is suitable for you and your level. This guide will help you choose a board that will not only enhance your learning and performance in Snowboarding, but also Ensure your Safety on the Slopes.

How much am I willing to pay for my Snowboard?

Let's face it, your buying decision is directly related to how much money you are willing to spend on your Snowboard. There are roughly three classes to distinguish here:

• Entry Level Boards ($150-$250)
• Mid-Range Boards ($250-$450)
• Top End Boards ($450 and up)

In general, cheaper boards will be heavier in weight and simpler in design. As boards get lighter and have more design specifications to fit certain styles of riding, they become more expensive. As you progress in your Snowboarding skills, you will learn which features a new snowboard should have and your demands will become more specific. It is highly advisable for beginning boarders to settle for a cheaper board because it will help them grasp their exact preferences.

What is my Skill Level?

In Snowboarding, the skill level is divided into three types:

• Newbie - from total beginner to having a few days of riding experience
• Intermediate - comfortable with common riding techniques and starting to try tricks
• Advanced - comfortable with riding all pistes and off slope; advanced tricks and skills

What is my preferred Riding Style?

• Once you have evolved from a beginner to a more experienced boarder, you may want to choose a distinctive Riding Style and adjust your gear according to that choice. The riding style you prefer will definitely help determine the type of board you should buy. Although riding styles in Snowboarding have many subclasses, there are mainly three riding styles - Freestyle, Freeride, and Freecarve.

Most boards are under one of these categories. Then again, some beginner boards can be a combination of Freestyle and Freeride. Still, it is best to choose a board that will fit your style as soon as possible instead of learning a particular style on a combination board. Many Snowboarders learn how to ride on a FreeRide/FreeStyle board and then choose either one of these styles. FreeCarving is often selected by more experienced FreeRide boarders. After you have decided on your ability and riding style, we can move on to the most important board buying decisions - board length and width.

How long should my Snowboard be?

Length is one of the most important characteristics of a Snowboard. The length of a Snowboard is measured from the tip of the nose to the end of the tail. The length is usually measured in centimeters and often abbreviated to just the last two digits. Board length varies from 100cm to 180cm.

To find the appropriate length for you, start by comparing the board length to your height. Although there are no dead set Rules in Selecting Board Length, the following are several guidelines to get you started. When holding the board on its end:

• Short board should reach somewhere between your collar bones and chin. Shorter boards are easier to maneuver, great to be trained on, and often preferred by riders who do a lot of Snowboarding Tricks, park and Pipe Riding.
• Medium length should come up between your chin and eyebrows. This length is preferred by all around intermediate to advanced riders who ride a variety of terrain, including parks and steeps.
• Long boards should go from your forehead to several inches over the top of your head. Long boards are used for high-speed carving, deep Powder Snow Surface, and big mountain terrain.

Choosing the suitable board length is not only influenced by your height but also by your weight. Keep in mind that a Snowboard acts like a leaf spring - it has no clue how tall the person standing on it is. However, it does know your weight. Based on your weight or body structure, the following will help you choose the Right Length of Snowboard:

• Lighter people should have shorter, more flexible boards. This is because a lighter person on a longer board commonly has a hard time controlling the board and initiating turns.
• For an averagely built person, the board length should reach somewhere between the chin and your nose.
• Heavier people should have longer, less flexible boards. A short board isn't advisable for heavy riders because the board often have a tendency to "wash out" or perform poorly, especially at higher speeds.
• Freestyle riding is often done with a shorter board to allow better maneuverability
• Freeriding, deep snow, and racing boards will be longer in size
• For an All-Mountain Rider and Backcountry Rider, go longer for stability

You may also consider your aggressive or timid style. If you're the type of boarder who really attacks the hill, you'll want to increase the length of your Snowboard up to five centimeters from the average size. Then again, if your riding style is naturally slower in character, go down five centimeters. Still, keep in mind that one Snowboard doesn't do it all.

What Width should my Snowboard be?

Snowboard width is directly related to your foot size and to some extent, the Type of Snowboard Binding you will use. The width, or waist, of the board is measured across the skinniest section, from edge to edge. This is measured in either centimeters (cm) or millimeters (mm), and can be found in the board's specifications right under the waist width.

To find the appropriate board width for you, stand on a board that is flat on the ground. Strap or step into your bindings, or place your feet exactly how you would have them when you ride. Standing in a riding position, your Snowboard Boots should be as flushed as possible over the edges of the Snowboard. If your toes and heels don't come close to the edge, you won't be able to apply proper pressure to your edges during a turn. If, on the other hand, your feet hang too far over the edges of the Snowboard, your toes or heel may catch in the snow while turning and send you reeling (this is sometimes referred to as "toe and heel drag"). Toe and heel drag is of major concern for all riders especially since drag will also make it difficult for the rider to carve on his edges. Thus, matching a Snowboard's width to your foot size is crucial.

Narrow Snowboards are easier to maneuver, initiate turns much faster, and are much quicker. Conversely, wider Snowboards are slower, more stable, and respond well in deep snow. It's important to make sure you get a board wide enough to prevent your heel and toes from dragging especially when performing a turn.

• If you have big feet, you should buy wider Snowboards or adjust the angle of their feet. Wider boards are made for stability, for deep snow, and to accommodate riders with large feet.
• Likewise, for riders with small feet, you should select narrow Snowboards
• For men and heavier people, choose wider Snowboards
• For women and riders with smaller feet, choose small-waisted Snowboards

How Flexible should my Snowboard be?

There are two kinds of flexibility for a snowboard:

• Torsional Flex. This is the flex across the width of a Snowboard, between the two edges. The torsional flex defines how well a board will hold on its edge. More torsional flex will make it easier to twist the board which is important in sharper turns. But too much torsional flex would not allow the board to arc fully and would take a lot of effort to initiate a turn. On the other hand, not enough torsional flex would make it difficult to keep the Snowboard on its edge during the completion of the turn.
• Longitidunial Flex. This indicates how flexible the Snowboard is from tip to tail. Having a balanced flex pattern will allow the board to ride and carve a turn evenly. In contrast, an unbalanced flex pattern (either the board's nose is softer or the tail is stiffer) allows the rider to get onto the other edge faster since it tends to accelerate the board out of the turns quicker.

A soft, flexible Snowboard is great for beginning riders, especially for kids, since a flexible board will turn more quickly and with greater ease at low speeds than a stiffer or longer board. Also, it requires less technique and strength.

Freestyle riders need more flexible Snowboards for more board control and maneuverability. On the other hand, Freeriders, especially Carvers, need stiffer boards to keep their boards under control in higher speeds. This is because stiffer Snowboards with rigid torsional flex are better on groomed runs and open terrain, as well as at high speeds.

Regardless of whether you're a Freestyler, Freerider, or Carver, keep in mind that the softer the Snowboard, the easier you can maneuver it. In general, Snowboards are comparatively softer as they get shorter. Still, you will find variations in flex that can affect your performance. Typically, if you have a lighter frame (125 to 135 lbs) you should go for a softer board. If you are averagely built (135 to 150 lbs), look for a medium-flex board. Accordingly, heavier people (150 lbs and above) need stiffer boards.

How Deep should the sidecut on my Snowboard be?

The sidecut's depth determines your Snowboard's ability to turn. In general:

• A very shallow sidecut allows for longer, sweeping turns and easier maneuverability and control. All-mountain boards have shallower side cuts.
• A deeper sidecut makes the board easier and faster to turn which is why beginner boards often have a deeper sidecut. This is also best for Freestyle riding.

To summarize, it is easier to ride on a soft-flexing, gradual sidecut, all-mountain Snowboard. On the other hand, it is harder to ride a stiffer-flex, aggressive sidecut, Freestyle board with scores of combinations in between. Keep in mind that these are just general guidelines to get you started. Your personal preference can often sway your decision of what Type of Snowboard to buy.

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Snowboard Helmet Sizing Chart

Helmet Sizing
Riders who wear helmets know they're smarter than those who don't. These days, helmets are lighter, more comfortable, and more protective than ever, with a decidedly no-dork factor. The helmet size is dependent upon the circumference of a rider's head. Measure across the temples just above the ears. Once again, keep growth in mind and do make room if the rider is young. Many times a beanie will be used in conjunction with the helmet, so keep that factor in mind as well. Sizing is as follows:

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Snowboard Materials and Construction

This article will give you general ideas of how Snowboards are Constructed and what they are made of. Although every Snowboard manufacturer has their own special trick when it comes to making their Snowboards, this section will discuss the basic formula on How to Make a Snowboard.

Snowboard Construction

There are some Basic Components that go into the Construction of every Snowboard. Each Snowboard has a base, an outer edge, a core, and a topsheet. A good quality Snowboard will be constructed like a Ski - it has metal edges and a P-tex base. There are generally Two Types of Snowboard Construction: the Capped Snowboards and the Traditional Sandwich Construction.

In Capped Snowboards, the top sheet (outer skin) is pinched over the sides of the snowboard meeting the steel edge. On the other hand, the top sheet on Traditional Sandwich Construction is flat, with the armor plating on the sides provided by separate sidewalls.

Each Type of Snowboard is similarly constructed with exception to some tooling modifications. Some designers say that Cap Construction enhances edge hold on hard snow and generally improves board responsiveness. Others claim that caps are harder to repair if you damage the sidewall. Both types have their merits, keep in mind though that what really matters is the materials under the skin.

What's in a Board?

The eight main materials in a snowboard are the:

• Topsheet with printed graphic
• Fiber glass or epoxy
• Wood or foam core
• Steel inserts
• Plastic base, (p-tex)
• Metal edges
• Resin System (glue)
• Rubber Foil

Carbon fiber can be added along with other performance enhancing materials.

Layers of a Snowboard

A Snowboard is similar to a sandwich that is made up of many layers. What follows are the components of a snowboard from top to bottom:

• The top layer of a Snowboard is a protective plastic layer called a "topsheet." The topsheet does not only protect the insides of the Snowboard from damage and exposure to ultra-violet rays, it also provides a good surface for graphics. Although the material used for the topsheet can vary, there are basically two types of topsheets - the glossy and matte. Glossy topsheets usually come with sublimated graphics. On the other hand, matte topsheets in general have screened-on graphics.
• Inside the topsheet is a layer of "fiberglass". This fiberglass lies on top of the core.
• The Snowboard's "core", which lies beneath the fiberglass, is what the rest of the board is wrapped around with. The core makes up most of the thickness of the Snowboard. This is usually made of wood foam, honeycomb panels, or a combination of wood and other composite materials, with sets of metal inserts needed to mount bindings.
  
  Cores made from honeycomb are lightweight and are surprisingly strong. With a wood core, you can be assured of a smooth response and lively flex from the board. Foam cores, in contrast, can sometimes loose their flex.
• Next is another layer of fiberglass, "fiberglass reinforced plastic" in particular. This provides stiffness and strength to the Snowboard.
• Following the fiberglass are steel edges. These edges surround the P-tex of the Snowboard, allowing the board to dig into the snow while turning. There are actually Two Kinds of Edges: partial steel edges that run only along the sides of the board, ending at the nose and tail, and edges that wrap all the way around both ends of the board.
• On the bottom is a layer of ultra high molecular weight polyethylene material commonly called "P-Tex." This is a dense, abrasion resistant plastic with low friction properties which provides the slippery surface that makes the Snowboard slide on Snow Surface. To keep your Snowboard running fast throughout the winter, you need to add wax to this base layer.
  
  There are basically Three Different Types of Snowboard Bases - extruded, sintered, and graphite. Extruded bases are long lasting and easy to repair. However, they are the slowest type of base, and they hold less wax than the other types of bases. A Sintered base is superior to the extruded base since it's more durable, faster, and can hold wax better. Then again, it's more expensive and difficult to repair. The graphite base, on the other hand, is the fastest type of Snowboard base and has a higher capacity to hold Wax. This Type of Snowboard Bases are always deep black and are mostly found on fast racing boards.

If you're looking for high performance, opt for a Snowboard with a sintered base. Then again, if you're on a tight budget, an extruded model will do.

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Snowboard Sizing Chart

Are there beginner boards and advanced boards?
The main difference is that boards with more built-in technology, being lighter and livelier, are generally considered "Advanced Boards". These boards allow the advanced rider to attain a higher level of performance. Yet, these same "advanced" riders can hop on our least expensive boards and still have fun.

1. Board Length + Width
A recent survey showed 85% of pro riders revealed that on average they rode boards that are 88% - 91% of their height. The formula to live by is: Rider Height (inches) x 2.54 x 0.88 = Suggested Board Length (cm). And presto, you have the perfect board for you in all conditions. Right? Wrong!! Keep in mind that there is no magical formula for every rider. It's more or less determined by terrain, conditions and most of all, personal preference. In general, an overall greater cm length will yield a board that can be controlled at and attain greater speeds. In addition, longer boards are better performers and float more in powder due to their increased surface area. Shorter overall lengths yield a board that is more maneuverable and offer a lower swing weight.

Your height (inches) x 2.54 x 0.88 = Suggested Board Length

2. Board Width
Board width is as important, if not more important, than overall length in selecting the right board for you. A board that is too narrow in relation to a rider's boot will cause toe and heel drag. With a board that's too wide, the rider will not be able to put adequate pressure on the toe and heel edge, thus creating an unresponsive ride. Use the following chart to gauge the relationship between your boot size and respective board waist width.

3. Gender
Gender is a factor in determining the appropriate equipment for the rider. Women's boards are designed to take into account the riders lower center of gravity, smaller foot size, and lighter weight.

4. Athletic Ability
A rider with extensive experience in other board sports (surfing, skateboarding, skiing, in-line skating, etc.) will probably want to invest more in their equipment since they will more than likely "take" to snowboarding quickly At the same time, someone with little outdoor sport experience might be best to keep their equipment purchase in the beginning.

5. Hard Pack and Machine-made Snow
Hard pack and machine made snow is usually prevalent among eastern areas that are required to make snow Under these conditions, your snowboarding equipment should contain more vibration control materials, such as a rubber dampening foil, which will provide for a smoother ride across hard pack snow.

6. Groomed and Natural Snow
This type of snow is usually prevalent among western and Rocky Mountain are as where natural snowfall can be dependable every year. Most riders would benefit from a longer board in a powder snow conditions. The extra length adds additional lift and helps the rider "float" atop the snow.

7. Variable Conditions
Anything other than powder and hard packed man-made snows fall into this category Most boards today are designed to excel in variable conditions Do not be tempted to buy a shorter board if your riding will take you into variable conditions A longer board is almost always preferable, unless you are looking for a board strictly for technical freestyle riding or are just learning.

8. Budget
As with the purchase of any sporting goods equipment, budgets are an important consideration. A rider does not have to have the best/most expensive equipment to become a good rider and enjoy the sport With board &bindings, it is usually okay to save a few bucks, either by buying last years model or a brand with less marketing clout.

9. Graphic Appeal
Part of the experience of snowboarding is the whole package, and board/boot/binding graphics play a role in overall satisfaction.

10. Weight
Rider weight is by far, the most important personal characteristic in determining board size When a heavier rider purchases a board that is too short, the board will have a tendency to "wash out" or perform poorly, especially at higher speeds. Conversely, a lighter person on a longer board will usually have problems controlling the board and initiating turns.

The board sizing charts are intended to be a guide. If in doubt, please call one of our sales representatives who can guide you through the process.

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Snowboard Tuning, Repair and Maintenance

A large part of the existence of a rider incontestably revolves around his Snowboard. However, frequent using of the Snowboard results to damages at Snowboard's Base and Edges ranging from small scratches to major cuts. To minimize this occurrence, you need to take time to keep your board in good condition. In this section, we will provide you with ways to Tune and Maintain your Snowboard.

Home Tuning vs. Board Shops

You will be surprised at all the things you can easily do yourself. All Basic Snowboard Maintenance, Repair and Tuning can be done at home with the right tools. However, if your board has taken serious damage like deep gouges in your base, you're better off leaving the repair to the professionals by bringing it to a Snowboard Shop.

Convex and Concave Bases

The base of your Snowboard should be totally flat, not rounded. If your edges are higher than your base, then your base is convex. On the other hand, if the edges are lower than your base, then your base is concave. You can easily check the rounding of your base by placing a flat surface against your Snowboard and checking if there's light coming through the front view of your base.

Convex or concave bases are not that easy to fix. It would be better if you leave these operations to a Snowboarding shop. If you try to do it at home with just files and scrapers, you will probably end up with an uneven surface.

Fixing Burred Edges & Edge Tuning of Snowboards

A Snowboard with sharp edges will help you in turns and will improve your general grip and edge control in the Different Snow Surfaces. As you use your Snowboard for longer periods of time, the edges will start to wear off, and become rounded and burred. Edge Maintenance is easy as long as you do it on a regular basis (e.g. every after riding), especially since small imperfections are easier to fix.

Each Snowboard has two edges:

• The Base Edge: the metal edge at the base of your Snowboard
• The Side Edge: the metal edge at the side of your Snowboard

Keeping your edges in perfect condition can be best done using the following steps:

Base Maintainance

The base of your board needs to be smooth to keep your Snowboard gliding perfectly. These are the steps for Basic Base Maintenance:

• Base Cleaning
• Wipe off all the dirt of the surface with some cloth.
• Apply a special base cleaner to the base of your Snowboard. Special Snowboard base cleaner will dissolve the wax and bring all kinds of impurities to the surface.
• Let the cleaner evaporate for about 15 minutes and wipe the surface again.

• Base Repair
  If you have small gouges in your Snowboard surface you can repair those using a P-Tex candle. As explained above, larger gouges should be repaired by the experts. Light one end of the P-Tex candle and let drops of P-Tex into the gouges. Let the board and the P-Tex cool down and then use a scraper to scrape off the excess P-Tex and smoothen the surface.
• Waxing
  The most common misconception about Snowboards is that, with today's high-tech board bases, waxing is no longer necessary. On the contrary, those who Wax their Snowboard regularly and properly, glides better. To know the benefits of Waxing Your Snowboard and more information about waxing, go to our Snowboard Waxing section.
  
  How to Wax Your Snowboard
  There are several different ways to Wax your Snowboard. The easiest way is to let someone else (like your local board shop) do it. But, if you prefer to wax your board yourself the following are steps to guide you on How to Wax your Snowboard. Although there are different kinds of wax for different purposes, a general Snowboarding Wax will do the job in most cases.

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Snowboard Types - Different Types of Boards

There are Three Different Types of Snowboards available on the market today: Freestyle, Freeride ( All Mountain), and Alpine (Carving) Boards. Each board has a unique Construction Technique and Materials, Shape, Flex Pattern, and Size. The Type of Snowboard you ride should correspond to the Style of Riding that you like to do.

Freeride or All Mountain Board

Of the Three Snowboard Types, the Freeride Snowboard is the most popular. Accounting for half of all Snowboard sales, this Type of Board is a good all-mountain, park and Halfpipe Snowboard that is designed to float well in Powder Surface. You can enjoy carving, catching air, and basically all riding aspects with this Type of Snowboard.

Freeride boards have a directional shape and are meant to be ridden primarily in one direction. Having a directional shape means that the Snowboard's tip is different from its tail. In freeride, the tail is generally more narrow, shorter, and flatter than the tip of the board. With this, the stance on freeride boards is usually offset toward the tail of the board. Still, freeride boards can be ridden Fakie, despite their directional shape.

Freeride Snowboards are usually fairly soft and maneuverable enough for beginners, but stiff enough to hold a fast turn in hard snow. This Type of Snowboard bridges the gap between freestyle and alpine carving. However, it isn't as stable as a carving board and it isn't as agile as a freestyle board. For a wide selection of Freeride Snowboards, visit our Snowboarding Gear Shop.

Freestyle Board

Freestyle Snowboards are wider, more stable, and more forgiving to ride. Also, it is shorter, lighter and (compared with freeride boards) softer in flex, which makes them handle better in the bumps and easier to turn. These characteristics make freestyle boards very responsive to the rider. Consequently, it is the best choice for the beginning rider.

These Snowboards are built mainly for performing tricks in terrain parks and halfpipes (e.g. spins, air, grabs and riding fakie). Still, freestyle Snowboards have limited edge grip and stability, and are not good for carving turns or cruising fast.

Most freestyle boards are either twin tip boards or directional-twin Snowboards. Twin tip boards have a centered stance with a tip and tail that are exact copies of each other, making them symmetrical in shape. Both ends of a freestyle Snowboard have a shovel, and freestyle boards with twin tip design makes it easy for beginners to ride both forward and backward (fakie). Directional-twin Snowboards are similar to the regular twin tip Snowboard; only, its tail is stiffer than the nose. For a wide selection of Freestyle Snowboards, visit our Snowboarding Gear Shop.

Carving, Alpine, or Race Board

Carving Snowboards are narrower than freestyle and freeride boards. Their long, narrow, stiff constructions are configured for higher speeds and cleaner carved turns. With this, carving boards allow quick edge turns, swift, superior edge-holding power on hard snow, and good stability for speed.

Also known as alpine boards, these snowboards almost look like an enlarged Ski. They are made in both symmetrical and asymmetrical styles and tend to only have a shovel on the nose. Similar with freeride boards, carving boards are made to ride only in one direction.

While carving boards offer a higher level of performance, they are more difficult for the beginning rider to use and are generally reserved for more advanced riders. Alpine Snowboards are mainly preferred by Snowboard racers for a great day of fresh unridden powder. Keep in mind that alpine Snowboards are configured for riding and carving downhill, not for doing tricks. For a wide selection of Carving or Alpine Snowboards, visit our Snowboarding Gear Shop.



To summarize, freestyle, freeride, and alpine or carving Snowboards are the Three Basic Types of Snowboards. It is easier to maneuver a soft-flexing, twin-tip, gradual side cut, Freestyle Snowoard. On the other hand, it is harder to maneuver a stiffer-flex, directional, aggressive sidecut All-Mountain Snowboard with scores of combinations in between. Always remember that the Type of Snowboard you ride should correspond to the Type of Riding that you like to do, and that both Freestyle and Freeride boards are good Snowboard Types for beginning snowboarders.

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Snowboarding Boots
 by: Jakob Jelling

The key to comfort on the hill.

The boots that you wear when snowboarding will make a huge difference with your ability to control your snowboard and your comfort on the hill. You will quickly find that cold, sore or wet feet will destroy a day of snowboarding faster than anything else will.

When it comes time for shopping for your snowboarding boots it is important to get the correct style of boot for the type of snowboarding you intend to do. There are three types of snowboarding boots commonly available, the soft boot, the hard boot and the hybrid boot.

While each boot is different on the outside, the insides tend to be the same. All snowboarding boots have a liner called the inner bladder. This inner bladder cushions and supports your feet, draws away water keeping your feet dry and keeps your feet warm. Generally the inner bladder will have its own laces so you will be able to secure the inner bladder to your foot in a way that is comfortable to you.

The soft boot is a specially designed boot that is very different from skiing boots. Soft boots are the most comfortable style of boot and can be used with Highback Bindings and Flow-in Bindings. The soft boot allows for a large amount of movement in just about any direction. For this reason soft boots are a must for pulling tricks since they are great for doing whatever you want. Also, soft boots are fairly comfortable for walking and even driving your car when you're not on the board.

Hard boots are quite a bit different as they are designed for precise control and are only used for a specific style of snowboarding. Hard boots support your foot, ankle and lower leg firmly, making them a must for racing and high-speed carving on hard snow. The hard outer shell is made out of hard plastic and is usually closed using buckles or ratchet bails. The benefit of having hard plastic as an outer shell is that it gives riders more precision and power in edging movements. In order to provide some flexibility, hinges are often built into the ankles.

Hybrid boots are a combination of both types of boots. Hybrid boots combine the flexible, soft upper part of soft boots with the sturdy hard soles of hard boots. They are used in combination with step-in bindings. People who are looking for a mix between the comfort and flexibility of soft boots and the control of hard boots will often opt for hybrid boots.

When shopping for boots it is important to bring along the footwear and leggings that you wear when snowboarding. If you do not wear these items when trying on your boots you may end up with a pair of boots that are too small when you wear heavy socks or pinches your legs due to your leggings.

Another important thing to do is to walk, run and jump in the boots you are thinking of purchasing. If you find any discomfort while doing this in the store you can be sure that they will also be uncomfortable when on the hill. If you keep all of this in mind you are sure to get the correct pair of boots and will be able to enjoy many days of snowboarding without complaint from your feet.

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Snowboarding Company Directory

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Snowboarding Jackets
 by: Jakob Jelling

Winter jackets have changed a lot over the years as technology has improved. The best solution used to be those big, puffy, down filled jackets. While they where warm they really didn't stand up all that well to wear and tears, moisture or active movements. Once again technology has come to our aid with the invention of new materials.

The new materials available have resulted in jackets that are warmer even when wet, lighter, more compact, tear resistant and fashionable. The most important area of improvement is the functionality of these new products. The main areas of improvement are in waterproofing, wind proofing and breathe ability.

Waterproofing is perhaps the most obvious idea and potentially the most important as well and is linked to your jackets ability to breath. Your body heat will be drained off very quickly if your clothing is wet make you cold much faster. Waterproofing has moved way beyond a simple chemical coating. Now it is at the point where there is a standard for waterproofing that is measured by how many centimeters of water can rest on top of the material before leaking through. The best fabrics can support tens of meters of water before leaking!

Waterproofing is more than just the type of fabric used since the final product is only as strong as its weakest link. What good is a waterproof jacket of water can pour through the zipper? A good quality waterproof jacket will have many extra features built into it that may not be visible. For example a jacket should have all of its seams sealed with a waterproof tape, the zipper should be covered, the inner layer must not absorb water and the entire jacket should be made of waterproof materials not matter what the section is.

The next area to consider is wind proofing. Wind proofing is almost becoming a thing of that past. Of course the wind will greatly effect how fast you loose body heat but is a non-issue if your jacket is highly waterproof. A jacket that can with stand a column of water tens of meters high is wind proof. The only time wind proofing is an issue is if your jacket is either entirely fleece or not fully waterproof.

The final thing to consider, and arguably the most important, is the breathe ability of your jacket. As we work and ride we create heat that translates into sweat. Of course a build up of sweat is a bad thing since it will allow cold to be conducted through to us so it must be dealt with. In order to deal with moisture we must use layers of clothing. The purpose of the first layer is to pull the moisture away from our skin but it must go somewhere. A breathable cloth will allow the moisture that is pulled away from our skin to escape outside our jacket without letting water seep in.

One option that you may find when shopping for a snowboarding jacket is something called a shell. A shell is a relatively special purpose adaptation of the snowboarding jacket in that it is intended for those who live in mild climates or who are not bothered by cold very much. A shell is a stripped down version of a full jacket in that it still provides wind and water protection but does not provide much, if any, climate protection. A shell is intended to be worn in relatively warm climates where the rider may only need a little water proofing and will add their own insulating layers as needed.

After deciding the amount of protection that you require you must then think about options available and if you want them. Things commonly available include removable hoods, over sized pockets for snacks and drinks, lift pass pocket, cooling vents, waist pull cords and reflective materials. Then of course you need to consider the style of the jacket if you haven't already decided.

Putting all of these elements together will ensure that you have a good jacket for all of your snowboarding needs. While you may not need to know all of the details, being well informed will help you make a better decision that will enable you to enjoy snowboarding even more.

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Snowboarding Pants
 by: Jakob Jelling

Baggie pants can be more than just fashionable.

Do you remember the days of having to put a snowsuit on in order to go out sledding or skiing? No matter what you did the snowsuit would always climb, let snow in, get wet and usually was uncomfortable because your pants where bunched up inside. Fortunately for those of us who can remember that, those days are long gone.

Modern snowboarding pants, and even regular snow pants, have vastly improved over what we might remember. Snowboarding pants are now worn like regular pants, thinner, lighter, tougher and warmer than ever before. Of course this is only possible thanks to demand and technological advances.

When thinking about snowboarding pants it helps to understand how they work. Generally snowboarding pants use a three-layer system. Some may only have two layers and are either inteended for very mild climates or to be worn over some type of underpants.

The first layer is the base layer and it is in direct contact with your skin. When riding outside you will heat up very quickly and then cool down while on the lift before repeating the process. The purpose of the base layer is to ensure that this can be done without you getting cold. The main reason you get too cold is because your sweat gets caught in the base layer against your skin and begins to freeze. A modern base material will prevent this by wicking the moisture away while providing some temperature balancing benefits.

The next layer is the insulation layer. The purpose of the insulation layer is to retain your body heat and the best way to do so is by trapping a layer of air around your body. This air will greatly decrease the heat exchange between your body and the outside world.

Generally the insulation layer mostly consists of polyesters. The most popular materials are fleece, bunting and pile. Fleece is the most common material and is a dense fabric that has been raked on one side to make the ends of the fibers stand up and trap the air. Bunting is a fleece that has been raked on both sides creating a tight solid weave with wooly air retaining surfaces on both sides. Pile is a single-sided fleece that has undergone more raking and has been processed further to create a much thicker open fabric.

The final layer is the outer shell, which is the only layer with direct contact to the outside world. The purpose of this layer is to protect against wind, rain and snow while letting moisture escape and protect the wearer from cuts, scrapes and chaffing. This layer is made from a material, such as Gore-Tex, which has holes that allow water vapor from your body to escape but are too small to allow a large drop of water in.

Now that you know how the products works you can begin shopping. After determining the number of layers you require you must look for other features. If you like to ride at night or in the dusk you may want reflective strips. For security you may wish to have inside zippered pockets. Large pockets are great for packing around food and water and a see through pocket is great for you lift pass.

If you keep in mind your snowboarding style, needs and what products are available you are sure to get the correct snowboarding pants. Having the correct gear goes a long ways towards maximizing your comfort and enjoyment while snowboarding. Have fun and stay warm.

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Snowboards

With over 100 different manufacturers producing boards, there is plenty of opportunity to personalise and show your own style through your board.

With some of the funky graphics around many boards are almost works of art. But if you're thinking about getting a board, what types are available:

All Mountain/Freeride Snowboards
These boards tend to have a stiffer flex and are designed for anyone looking to ride the whole mountain, with snowboarder utilizes the whole mountain. You enjoy carving, catching air, basically all riding aspects.

Freestyle Snowboards
Mainly for tricks in the park or halfpipe - spins, grabs, rails, basically ripping it up. These softer boards are probabably best for beginners.

Alpine Snowboards
Seen less and less often alpine boards offer more options for carving at speed and are definitely not for catching air.

Length
As in selection of skis there is no dead set rule for selecting board length. A good approximation is that the board should reach to between your chin and your nose from the floor.

Width
Snowboard width is pretty much directly related to foot size and more recently, the type of binding you use. It's important to make sure you get a board wide enough to prevent you're your heel and toes from dragging.

Bindings
The standard bindings for snowboards are strap bindings - using a baseplate and ratchet-based buckles to tighten your foot. There are typically two straps on each binding - a wide, comfy heel strap that pulls you back into the heel cup of the binding, and a narrower toe strap used to hold your toe down.

The high backs on snowboard bindings help you to force the heel side edge of the board into the snow and brings the toe side of the board up. Initially you may have to sit down to strap in, but with a bit of practice it's easy to strap in whilst standing up.

In the last few years, step-in bindings have stepped into (ha, ha!) the snowboard scene. Unlike strap bindings, step-in bindings mean you can simply step down and click into your board, rather than go through the palaver of sitting down to strap on your board.

The catch with step-in bindings is that you need step-in boots. As these don't have any straps to give additional support, the boot is less flexible, so make sure you get a good fit if you're thinking about this. So while you have additional speed and can save yourself a load of hassle, the stiffer boots can make it harder to do tricks and offer less choice of boot.

Flow Bindings
The 'Apple Macintosh' of the market is Flow, who make binding that are a hybrid of step-in and strap systems. You can step into the binding, but they are at the same time compatible with any soft boot.

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The Sexy Shape of a Snowboard
 by: Jakob Jelling

Everyone knows that an hourglass figure turns heads. Not as many people know that the same figure is also behind the design of modern snowboards. While the hourglass figure on a snowboard doesn't turn heads as fast as a women's figure does it does help you to turn faster than any head can.

The degree of side cut on a snowboard does effect its performance on the hill. The side cut radius is the size of the circle that is cut out of your snowboard. To put this into perspective, most skateboarding ramps have a radius of 9' and professional ramps as seen on TV will have a radius of 11'. As you can imagine, there is a definite curvature to the snowboard but it is subtle enough that it isn't always easy to spot.

When a person first thinks about the side cut they may feel that it is a ploy by manufacturers to reduce the materials and thus cost of producing the snowboards. This can not be further from the truth. To understand side cuts you must think of why the map of the world has slices in it. A flat object can not proportionally represent a round object. For this reason a snowboard with a curve, or side cut, can turn faster and more aggressively than a snowboard that is straight along it's length.

The reason that this is true is due to the way that the snowboard tries to bend and comfort to the surface that it is on when riding. When you turn your snowboard your weight and twisting causes the snowboard to flex and bend. The key to turning is to have the effective edge bite into the surface that you are riding on while being flexible enough to twist so that you can control the movement. A long straight line does not like to deviate from its basic shape but a curved line will meld with the hill and still have enough flexibility to bite into the surface as needed.

When it comes time to purchase your snowboard you must think of its use and how it will react to the environment that it is exposed to. Proof of this fact comes when we think of surface area on a snowboard. A small side-cut radius means that more of the material has been cut out of the center of the snowboard. A large side-cut means that the cut is shallower thus leaving more surface area.

So what difference does side cut make to the rider? Simple, more surface area means more pressure is spread out over a larger area, which leads to more potential energy and thus greater speed due to reduced friction. Basically if you want to go fast, and reduce your maneuverability, than you want a large side-cut in your snowboard. However, if you seek more control and sharper turning than you want a small side-cut in your snowboard.

To many people snowboarding seems like an easy and simple past time that can be mastered in a very short amount of time. While it is true that snowboarding can be learnt in fairly short order there are many fine details that a snowboarder must pay attention to in order to achieve their peak performance. As you can tell from this even the seemingly minutest details can have a big difference.

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